Lawn care: Lawns require year around attention. Boew spots should be sowed in February or March, and covered with 1/4 inch of sifted oil. In the spring, the lawn should be dressed with compost or other organic fertilizer, moistened and rolled with a 140 to 300 lb, roller. Lawns should be moved when grass is 2 to 3 inches high.
Weeds: Weeds may be minimized by mulching, cultivating and hoeing. They are best killed when just through the ground. After that, they are progressively harder to get rid of. During the summer remove weeds and apply chemical weed-killer. In early fall, cut grass close, eliminate weeds with an iron rake and use to 10 to 25 lbs. of fertilizer per 1000 square feet. Spade up bare spots and make a new seed bad. New seed should be scattered, and covered with sifted top soil. During this season, grass should be cut at 1 1/2 inches, and later at 2 inches, until growth steps. If real sod is available, it may be used to cover small areas.
Broad weeds generally can be controlled by 2,4-D. Follow manufacturer’s directions strictly. Sprayers and other containers should be cleaned thoroughly after the have been used to apply 2,4-D. It is wise to have two sets of spraying equipment; one for 2,4-D and one for other purposes. 2,4-D is not harmful to persons or animals. Crabgrass, dandelions, plantain, and chickweed may be partially controlled by hand weeding as the plants appear. Pull or cut dandelions 2 to 3 inches below the surface. Avoid scattering pieces of crabgrass.
Other weed killing chemicals are sodium arsenate, iron sulfate oil, and common salt. Weeds are best pulled while young, before roots from thickly or seeds mature. To prevent weeds, have a thick stand of grass. To fill holes left by pulled weeds, use hormones treated grasses, which germinate faster.
Lead arsenate poisonous but with care, it can be used with relative safety. If is useful against chickweed. Poa annual, and crabgrass in the more acid soils. Apply 20 lbs. Per 1000 square feet at any time of year. It is also effective against most insects that live in the soil.
Insect and disease: Insects most troublesome in lawns care beetle grubs, armyworms, sod budworms, ants, chinch bugs, and mole crickets. Ticks and chiggers are not harmful to the lawn, but they are a nuisance to the lawn owner and his children.
The most insect can be controlled by DDT compounds. Ants, mole crickets, and chinch bugs are not readily controlled by DDT but can be checked by the chlordane products.
Most earthworms may be controlled by the use of lead arsenate of algae is a condition caused by standing water on the surface of the soil. Improving the drainage will eliminate this condition.
Dollar spot, to which bent lawns are susceptible, may be controlled by the use of mercury or cadmium compounds.
You can also read: Steps in Making and Maintaining a Lawn
Shaded areas: Densely shaded areas under trees usually present problems. Deep placement of fertilizer around trees and heavy fertilizer applications of the turf may compensate for the scarcity of available plant food. Shade tolerant species (the fescues and trivialize bluegrass in the cool, humid regions; and the Zoysia grasses and St.Augustine in the warm, moist areas) will overcome the shading effect. Prompt raking or sweeping of falling leaves prevents any smothering effect which they might have. Grass should be forced into rapid growth during the period when the leaves are off the trees begin growth in spring. If despite proper fertilization, grass will not grow in your shaded areas, ground covers like vinca, pachysandra, and thyme are sometimes used.